'Applique', which is a French term, is a technique by which the decorative effect
is obtained by superposing patches of coloured fabrics on a basic fabric, the
edges of the patches being sewn in some form of stitchery. It is distinct from
what is known as patch work in which small pieces of cut fabrics are usually
joined side by side to make a large piece of fabric or for repairing a damaged
fabric. Though the form is not unknown in other parts of India, it is Orissa
and specially in Pipli that the craft has a living and active tradition continuing
over centuries.
Giant-sized umbrellas of applique work are produced for use on festive occasions.
Also used as garden umbrellas in sprawling lawns, they lend grace and colour
to any gathering. Heart-shaped fans, big and smau canopies and wall-hangings
are also prepared out of applique work.
The art form typically depended on four basic colours - red, white, black and
yellow to produce a striking effect. In recent years, green too has been applied
vigorously enlivening the craft even more. Themples and other religious institutions
extensively patronized this art. In fact the basic inspiration for the art form
was mainly religious in nature.